Memorable Molokai

a hidden, sleepy gem of an island, full of surprises

Molokai is a small island that's part of Maui County and is located seven miles off the bigger island's coast. It's one of the least populated and most traditional Hawaiian islands, with only 7,500 full-time residents, according to the most recent census. It's 260 mi.², and shaped like a longish eggplant, with the bigger, taller end closest to Maui.

As often happens in the Hawaiian archipelago, one side of the island is higher, catching passing clouds and rain. Erosion has shaped dramatic and lush sea cliffs, the tallest in the world, with canyons breached by waterfalls and robed in jungle.

Much of the sea cliff areas of Molokai are inaccessible except by boat.

The much larger part of the island is in the rain-shadow of mountains. The arid former pineapple and sugarcane countryside, now cattle country, is made up of red soil carved by…